Colleen’s Adventures

Seminario St. Luis.

This former seminary, adjacent to the cathedral, has been transformed and is now occupied by restaurants, boutiques, and even a brewery!

Leones, tigres y osos, ¡Dios mío! (That’s “Lions and Tigers and Bears, oh my!” to all of you gringos.)

It’s been a few weeks since I arrived in Cuenca, so I thought I’d share some thoughts on what it’s been like and how I’m feeling.

Weather/Climate

If you haven’t already looked it up, Cuenca is the third largest city in Ecuador. It is located in the Andes mountains about 8,400 ft above sea level and approx -3 degrees south latitude. The combination of latitude and elevation makes for a climate that is relatively static year-round. FYI – the effect here of the current el niño has been a significant lack of rain. Cuenca is usually very green and lush; we could use a week of rain to green up everything and get the rivers back to normal.

Sure could use some rain!

Note* – I used weatherspark.com alot during my research. Like any information, you have to consider the source. In the case of Cuenca, the high temps listed are a little low due to the altitude of the actual location from which the data is sourced. For instance, the actual highs during September are usually in the high 60’s to low 70’s in the city proper. Lows are around 50. We are now moving into the sunnier, drier part of the year – yay! It is glorious here on a sunny day, but I’m very mindful of that equatorial sun; it is intense. I wear 50 sunblock so I don’t burst into flames!

With the exception of el centro, there is very little flat and level around the city. There is up and there is down….. the question is usually “how steep?”

Also, Cuenca sits in a bowl – so as you head in almost any direction, you’re probably gonna head uphill! Have fun!

So, What’s it Been Like?

I can sum up my first few weeks in 4 words – It’s been a lot.

Spanish

To quote my brother, Tim “The problem with learning Spanish is that they have a different word for everything!”

My Spanish is passable, but just barely. I can communicate what I need/want and ask basic questions. I’m proficient enough to read and understand signs, menus, and the transportation apps. Google Translate comes to the rescue when I am at a loss. The big problem is in comprehending the spoken word. The cadence, inflection and speed just blow me away. It makes every interaction challenging and a bit stressful. I am always asking people to repeat themselves and apologizing for my poor comprehension. Thank goodness the Cuencanos are understanding and willing to indulge the ugly American!

I’m practicing Spanish lessons every day on the computer and on Audible. In addition, next week I start a 6 week group course here in Cuenca; I really want to ramp up my listening and comprehension skills. Practice, practice, practice!

Personal Safety

I’ve done enough research and read/heard enough horror stories about personal safety and crime overseas to make almost anyone run for the nearest closet, lock the door and throw away the key! Ecuador is not as safe as it was pre-Covid; then again, what place is? But it’s not going to stop me from traveling to the places I want to go. Cuenca is not St. Louis or Chicago or Juarez. I walk all around el centro and other neighborhoods close to downtown – it’s a busy place, every day! I’m not familiar yet with these areas and am guarded and keenly aware of my surroundings. I don’t foolish things – like walking alone at night (regardless of where I am!), flashing cash, wearing expensive jewelry or leaving my cell phone out. I wear my purse as a cross-body bag when I am out walking; I don’t put valuables in pants pockets. Common sense stuff.

All those things help me stay safe, but the heightened vigilance and awareness is exhausting. A few weeks in I am feeling a bit more relaxed. I look around and see how Cuencanos are behaving. I see people on their cell phones, young women walking alone with purses slung over one shoulder, children running around in and among strangers many feet from their parents, older women chatting as they walk down the street, arms laden with mercado purchases. All of those things, along with my own experience over the past few weeks have helped me relax and enjoy my new surroundings more. I am still aware, but am also feeling more comfortable.

The Water

The water tastes great in Cuenca. it comes from the nearby mountains and is treated and chlorinated, so it is safe to drink. Unfortunately, in most of the rest of the country, the water is not potable – bottled water is the order of the day.

Money

Ecuador uses the American dollar as their currency. Why? There was a big financial and inflationary crisis at the end of the last century that led to the change. You can read more about it here. It sure makes shopping easier; no need to do calculations in your head when you want to buy something! Credit cards are accepted at some restaurants and at larger stores or chains, but cash is king in Ecuador. Smaller cafe’s, tiendas and mercados accept only cash. Another thing to be mindful of is the denominations you carry. 10’s & 20’s can be used at larger stores or for larger purchases, but with smaller vendors or at the mercado, $1 coins are the way to go. You rarely see dollar bills – they wear out too quickly.

Getting Around

Cuenca has a fantastic transportation system. Relative to income, cars are very expensive here, so most people rely on public transportation (although that’s hard to believe considering the traffic in this town!). Buses go everywhere and are very inexpensive ( fare is .30 per ride, .15 if you are 65 or older!). There is also the Tranvia light rail system. I’ve ridden plenty of buses already, but not the Tranvia. Taxis’ are also plentiful and inexpensive. You can go anywhere in the city for $5 or less!

Casas y departamentos

Housing here in Cuenca is much like anywhere else in the world – city center prices are higher than the other neighborhoods, closer suburbia can be expensive (think gated communities, condos and high rises), and the countryside is least expensive. Rental and sale listings posted online are aimed at the expat market, and are prices much higher than average. I know someone who has a beautiful 1 Br, 1.5 Ba apartment in el centro – they pay $400/mo. I also know of another couple who lives in a 2 Br, 2 Ba gated condo with 24 hr security in an expat area – they pay over $1200/mo. The apt. in el centro is beautiful and was found via friends and word of mouth; I understand that is the best way to find a nice, affordable apartment.

So, What’s the Plan, Stan?

My goal for this trip is to see what life might be like if this were my new home. When I retired I knew I wouldn’t be living the country club lifestyle and that’s fine – I never aspired to that. What I wanted was to travel. There are so many places I want to see and explore; so many adventures to be had! And after a long trip there is nothing better (for me) than to return home to familiar surroundings, relax and recoup (and plan the next adventure!). Hmmm….. there’s the rub. Champagne taste, beer budget. I can afford a nice place to live in the US, but there’s not much left over for international travel. Well, that just doesn’t work for me. I want to travel AND have a home base. So, I went looking for a place to live that would provide a comfortable lifestyle and be affordable enough that I could pack my bags at least a couple times a year to travel. Enter, Cuenca.

I’m trying on Cuenca to see if it fits. No, it is not anything like the US; it never will be and that’s ok with me! The people are nice, the water is clean, it’s very affordable to live here on a fixed income, and I can be in Miami in about 6 hours if need be.

I’m planning day trips to explore the nearby national park (Cajas), several smaller towns, archaeological sites, and even thermal pools in the area. But mostly, I’m livin’ my life – just like everyone else. Will Cuenca be my new home base? Ask me again in December.